specialty coffee

Why is it hard to find women occupying spaces of power in the coffee value chain?

Saying that women work hard may sound like an unnecessary statement. They are majority in some professions, but do not occupy many spaces of power. The coffee industry, as well as everywhere else, has diverse voices and feminine work that are worthy of visibility.

In March, The International Women’s Day is celebrated. A political day that originated in protests for equal rights, freedom and emancipation and dated from mid-19th century to 20th century in Russia, United States and Europe. In Brazil, only after the Constitution of 1934 (Elections Code of 1932) the feminine vote was introduced and also the possibility of electing women for executive and legislation positions.

It is important to remember the origins and meaning of that fight in order to reinforce its ideal of equity not only based in gender but in the broader sense of social equity. We can start by the law’s correction for maternity leave: in Brazil, the period of maternity leave is of 120 days whilst for men is of 5 days. That fact stimulates the inequality at the hiring moment because some companies prefers hiring men for that reason, and once again, it is a society’s way of exalt and ratify the women’s role as responsible for taking care of the children and household.

In the world of coffee, the union and fighting for women visibility is represented by the IWCA – International Women’s Coffee Alliance. The IWCA advocates for approaching women to themselves. It was established in Brazil in 2012 with the goal of creating opportunities to women in coffee in Brazil.

From March 15 to 19, the IWCA Brazil in partnership with UN Women have promoted dialogues named Learning Trail with simultaneous translation to English and Spanish with the following headline:

The advent of specialty coffees highlighted new possibilities for enterprises and roles in the coffee sector. But how to build a successful path in a young market and with so many possibilities?

The goal was showcasing women in coffee, inform other women and share ideas of how they can develop professionally. The IWCA Brazil invited many women from specific coffee areas of the value chain, from production, trade, export, management, roast to hospitality and service. After all, a truly journey and exchange of knowledge. Every debate was open to Q&A and everybody won, a “win-win” relation indeed.

The Learning Trail taught us that there are many stories from women that need to be shared and understanding the paths they have taken to reach unimaginable places – not without resistance –  is more than learning the technical or intellectual competences. It is about feeling in your soul that women in coffee are not alone and there are many spaces they can and must occupy.

It is important to emphasize that we have walked a lot in women’s rights, however the coffee universe is still hegemonically masculine. Although many women are involved in the production phase – plant care, harvesting, processing and sorting – in other steps of the value chain like transporting, marketing and trade women’s presence and voices are scarce (The Way Forward: Accelerating Gender Equity in Coff­ee Value Chains, 2015).

Sorority is an essential concept in the feminist movement, but the essence of the word is nothing more than union among women. And the event promoted by the IWCA is an example of alliance of solidarity and, beyond those noble grounds, aims for stimulating women to get professionalized, learning about their product, and saying one more time that “the woman’s place is wherever she wants to be.”

Among many stories, victories and fights of women in coffee, we highlight the story of Dona Ivone Botoni Baziolli who is 88 years-old and dedicated 65 years of her life working at the Agronomic Institute of Campinas (IAC). She has vastly contributed to the research of new coffee varieties like catuai, yellow bourbon and mundo novo at the oldest coffee research institute in the world. She received a tribute at an international event organized by the COFFEE COALITION FOR RACIAL EQUITY (@coffeeforequity).

In the end, the Foucauldian perspective says that the power itself does not exist but relations of power which are disseminated and very well-articulated throughout the social system. Such articulation lead women to be silent and now they have some voice, though still occupy an unequal position in a society that promotes the triple journey – household matters, children care and work – and impose limitations to access the spaces of power in a veiled way…

Conclusion: it is urgent and necessary seeing more women occupying spaces of power in coffee.

Aequitas Coffee: from conception to birth

Wow! 2017 was one of the most intense years in my whole life. Being an entrepreneur requires an energy that you didn’t imagine you’d have, ability to deal with unknown experiences, be patient to learn with them, and remember your mission every day.

I remember two and half years ago talking to a close friend who calls herself as my second mother. She is my mom’s age and a great counselor. At that time, I told her that I wanted to have my own business, apart from working in the family farming business, something related to specialty coffee export but I didn’t know how to start. By that time I had already exported a container with the family's coffee to Europe and wondered how I could do the same for other producers.

I’ve been closely in touch with specialty coffee since September 2013 when I did a barista course at CoffeeLab in São Paulo. In that same year, I spent three months in Paris and frequently visited many coffee shops there. I got amazed by the growing specialty coffee scene and dreamed of one day seeing my family's name in a coffee menu at one of those cafés. My knowledge was restricted to the market from a specialty coffee consumer perspective and I dedicated myself to studying and researching every time I had an opportunity to travel abroad and in São Paulo as well.

In 2014, I decided moving back from Sao Paulo, a cosmopolitan metropolis of 11 million people, to my little hometown Sao Gotardo of 30 thousand people. It was a hard decision. I aimed working with specialty coffee from a producer perspective at the family’s farm. My father has been working with coffee since he was a little boy – now he’s 70 – and here in Cerrado region since 1975. He’s never heard of specialty coffee, and considering this context, it’s not hard to imagine his resistance to my fanciful ideas about producing this sort of product. As soon as I arrived I started the traceability program and began a plan for the farm certification. Now we have Certifica Minas Certification and UTZ. 

In September 2016, after accumulating some knowledge about the market, I had my export company business canvas done and now one and half years later here I am with Aequitas. In April 2017, I officially launched Aequitas Coffee at SCA coffee expo. There I made some contacts and thanks to IWCA network I started a meaningful connection that lead Aequitas to successfully accomplish the aim of connecting producers to the specialty coffee market and vice-versa.

Aequitas coffee bag

Aequitas coffee bag

After interviewing each producer, today I feel proud and fulfilled of seeing my family’s, the producers’, and the region stories into the importers’ website and I know that it’s reaching the roasters and I believe even consumers. It comes to my memory that moment in Paris four and half years ago that motivated me to challenge myself. Finally, the farmer is now the protagonist and from their perspective this is so meaningful because it broke a paradigm that has existed for years, in which coffee was simply traded as a commodity and the producer had no idea on its quality and destination. The stories are being forwarded to a numerous number of people and for those who value it, they’ll be able to dive into a journey behind an apparently single cup of coffee. 

After this first year of export experience, Aequitas presented above market prices in relation to the region’s physical prices basis and could pay an average for ready to export coffee from 70% to 75% of the FOB price to the producer, in comparison to the C-Market, considering the day the producer was paid and a fixed currency established via export financing. The other part refers to packing, logistics, bank financing, port, government taxes and Aequitas work. 

For 2018, the expectation is to continue creating transparent, win-win relationships, long lasting, and meaningful coffee connections and share with the world our specialty coffee, our people and our stories. If you’re interested in learning what we have to offer please contact me. Or if you want to know our coffees and their profiles, please visit Crop to Cup Coffee Importers – look for Edson Tamekuni and Yuki Minami. Also Mercanta – at UK warehouse, look for Fazenda Olhos d'Água, Yamaguchi Farm Lote 68, Fazenda Onze Mil Virgens, Fazenda Santo Antonio and Fazenda Agrovila.

I couldn't finish this post without thanking my family, the producers, importers and IWCA who have trusted in Aequitas work and contributed to making this dream a reality.

See ya!

Coffee chain shortcut: from producers to barista and vice-versa

As part of Aequitas’ initiative of approaching farmers to the market, during one week in August, a series of lectures and coffee brewing workshops was held for 4 distinct groups of coffee producers in the region of São Gotardo.

During three and half hours, a brief outlook about the US market was presented – as result of my research field trip to the US in April for SCA coffee expo and impressions from the specialty coffee scene around Seattle, Portland, Bend, and San Francisco. Afterwards, throughout 3 hours Maria Antonia Mion, barista and partner at Supernova Coffee Roasters located in Curitiba – 1.100 km from São Gotardo – presented filtered coffee brewing techniques, perceptions about Curitiba’s specialty coffee consumers and her everyday experience behind the counter making lots of espressos, macchiatos, cappuccinos and drip coffee to Supernova clients.

Maria’s workshop is quite interesting, she teaches not only about extraction techniques but also curiosities and the history of each method. She divides the methods in timelines: classic, modern, and post-modern and focused on teaching the most popular methods in specialty cafés.

Specialty coffee talk at COOPACER co-op

At this edition, she taught in minute-details the importance of coffee and water qualities, storage, different coffee infusions and extractions due to different types of grinding and lastly a step by step for making a delicious coffee with a French press, Hario V60 and Aeropress. We used the producers’ coffee from the 2017 harvest. The workshop got more stimulating for everyone, especially the sensorial perceptions in body, sweetness and acidity when tasting the same coffee in different methods.  

At Coopacer, a co-op located in São Gotardo, the first group had producers, agronomists, co-op employees and local roasters participating. They were quite curious and lots of questions arose about the specialty coffee market.

The second group were formed by small producers, from 2,5 to 30 hectares, who are assisted by EMATER (Minas Gerais State Company for Rural Technical Assistance and Extension) and the activities happened at Mr. Rafael’s house in Agrovila – thanks a lot Mr. Rafael for your hospitality! They were quite curious about Maria’s teachings and it’s interesting noticing that each audience has different doubts, behavior and needs, even though dealing with the same thing that is coffee. This is the beauty of human nature.

Brewing workshop with Maria Mion at Mr. Rafael's house

Brewing workshop with Maria Mion at Mr. Rafael's house

The third class was at Coopadap where most of the participants were coffee producers. The class were quite advanced about concepts of specialty market and delighted themselves at the workshop.

At last, the 4th group was my darling one. I was there not just representing Aequitas but it was my contribution to IWCA, as an IWCA Cerrado Mineiro member and advocate for women empowerment, especially in the coffee chain. The women producers belong to the rural community of Chaves and to the co-op Carpec in Carmo do Paranaíba, 50 km from São Gotardo. Maria and I were quite surprised and pleased for seeing Maisa, a curious 16-year-old girl who were attending the workshop among adults. Her mother couldn’t participate so she was there to represent her. This is such a significant participation that express the importance of family succession in farming, whereas sometimes we see the younger generations that don’t want to continue in rural activity.

Women producers from the rural community of Chaves and CARPEC co-op. Maisa is the second on the left

Women producers from the rural community of Chaves and CARPEC co-op. Maisa is the second on the left

At the end, after an intense week sharing and learning through talks, workshops and visits to farms, the feeling was of fulfillment for the opportunity of impacting 40 people’s lives and a reinforcement to myself: I simply enjoy establishing connections with people and even more when those new links are created through coffee.

 

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